Master Lock Lockout Tagout Safety Padlock, Blue

For those of us in the Locksport Community, we all know Master Lock is the butt of a great number of jokes because their products are truly horrible. However, this padlock is a rare exception. This lock is NOT designed to withstand physical attacks; the body is made of plastic. However, with a 6-pin core containing all security pin drivers, it’s great practice for those looking to sharpen or maintain their skills with spool and serrated pins. My attached pictures give you a look inside the lock. The lock housing is not designed to be opened; the plastic body is sealed. I broke mine open along the seam line and then super-glued it back together. The plug has a standard Master Lock keyway but because the entire core is relatively small, maneuvering your pick can be a little tricky due to limited space. Also, this is a dead core meaning there is no spring tension on the plug. Precision tension therefore becomes very important which is more great practice. My lock (and I assume yours will too) contained 5 spool drivers, 1 serrated driver (having two spaced out serrations), and 6 standard key pins. For prices in the single digits, you just can’t beat this lock. Now, if someone could only talk Master Lock into pinning ALL their locks this way…

[***WARNING*** ] The opening in the plastic body through which the key is inserted is warded so that when turning the key to unlock it, the key (and therefore the plug) will only rotate 90 degrees before stopping. After successfully picking this lock, DO NOT rotate the plug anywhere near 180 degrees. Stop at 90 like the key does. The reason for this is because if you rotate the core 180 degrees, all of the key pins in the plug will fall out inside the body of the lock. You will then be forced to either throw it away or crack it open and re-pin it. You can see in one of my pictures what the lock will look like once you crack it open if you pick it and rotate the plug too far. All of the key pins are laying loose in a recess.

Mon cadenas est arrivé bloqué lorsque j’ai mis la clef pour la première fois ça a bloqué et impossible de ma sortir j’entendais des pièces qui ce balladaient a l’intérieur je l’ai donc puvert pour voir si je pouvais pas le réparer et le recolé ensuite mais les ressorts de goupilles etaient mort.

Masterlock m’a dit que je devais contacté amazon pour un nouvel envoi, je veux bien vous le retourner mais comme il est ouvert en deux je sais pas si ça sert.

It’s a 410 LoTo, with one key (retaining). Steel shackle, ball bearings and socket locking mechanism. Thermoplastic body. Brass core, 6 pin, all spools other than #5 which is standard. The core is un-sprung and slightly loose in the body which can be a new challenge for tension and false-set feedback skills learning. Paracentric keyway but can be picked with a 0.025“ well polished pick, but a 0.020-0.018“ works best for me. I have a few, one I kept stock, one I took apart and transplanted the core into an American A1100 body, and one I am turning into a cut-out learning lock. A good next step after Master 140D 4 pin spools and Brady brand 6 standard pin un-sprung core and Diyife aluminum 6 standard pin sprung core locks (certain Abus 72/40’s 6 pin spool well sprung core locks which have multiple keyway core options, alternately).

This is a great lock for lockout/tagout purposes.

Mine came with one key. Keep in mind that some locksmiths may refuse to duplicate a lockout key, and for good reason. It is a safety device. Having 2 keys presents the opportunity for another person to inadvertently remove the padlock while it is being serviced downstream. If the equipment is energized, it could kill you.

The lock body is plastic. This lock is designed to provide reasonable resistance to accidental/unauthorized energizing of a switch or disconnect.

This lock is NOT designed to provide resistance to forced access. This lock could easily be opened with a hammer, but keeping in mind the intended use of this device, that is not an unreasonable amount of security.

If you are buying this lock, keep in mind it’s intended function — reasonable resistance to accidental/unauthorized use or engagement of a switch or disconnect while service is being performed downstream of the circuit. It is not designed to be a long term use lock.

A buddy of mine uses these on his gym locker because it is lightweight and unique allowing it to be identified easily. The key cannot be removed from the lock while it is unlocked, which helps prevent a misplaced key as well as ensuring that the lock is fully engaged before you walk away.

See the standards for lockout/tagout if you are interested in exactly what this padlock is for.

Best lock core I’ve seen in a Masterlock. All 6 pins are security pins. The ones I received have 5 spools and 1 serrated pin. I’m not sure if the numbers of each vary from lock to lock, but since both of mine have the same, I’d bet they all are. Both have pretty extreme bitting making them a challenge.
Do not rotate core past 90 degrees!! The key pins will all dump out into the lock body. Even knowing this beforehand I still managed to do it with one of the locks and had to split the body open and re-pin it. It’s really easy to over rotate if not paying attention.
Overall, they are great locks to hone or develop your skills with security pins as they are cheap and have a challenging core. However, they would be less than useless to secure valuables as they are designed for lockout tagout and one strike from a hammer would shatter lock body and shackle would fall open.

What on earth is the fascination of lock picking, i actually bought this padlock to isolate electrical supplies, radical i know, but it does the job, well pleased